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Sydney Table - June 2006

Sumo Salad

June 29th 2006 11:21
Various locations (lots in the city)

I wouldn't normally give any airtime to a fast food joint, but it's time we loosened up. It's holidays, after all!
And actually, Sumo Salad is pretty good. Definitely top of the fast food (compost) heap.

Sumo is a salad bar, which also does sandwiches, rolls, toast, noodles, muffins, pitta wraps, juices, and cleans and polishes your car.

Well ok, maybe not the juices.

Anyway, the salads are the main attraction, so we shall never speak of the rest again. And the salads are good. Made with fresh ingredients, which actually taste like real food. And best of all, it's healthy. You can actually enjoy eating it, because the chicken does resemble chicken, and the salad looks similar to what you eat at home. You actually feel comfortable eating this food; a strange occurrence for fast food (if for some reason you were forced at gun point to eat Maccas, you would avoid thinking about what in fact you're eating - not so here).


You can pretty well make up your own salad, or go with one of their suggestions. Either way, it's roughly $8 for a regular salad. Don't go for the small, it's much too small for anyone to eat, and not that much cheaper.
My recommendation, in terms of taste and maximum health benefit (if you're going to lunch on salad you might as well make the most of it) I have surprisingly named Moroccan Chicken, as it's the Moroccan Lamb salad with chicken instead. Go figure.
The spicy BBQ prawn salad is also good, and for those of us who are less carb conscious (thank God) the salads come with a mini bread roll. Bonus!


Sumo Salad takes advantage of the emphasis on healthy food in the last five years, and well it should. It makes a viable, quick and decent place to eat when you're out.
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Oceanic Thai

June 26th 2006 08:35
Oceanic Thai really is a mixed bag; I'm not too sure what to say. On paper it looks so promising - Max Mullins, former head chef of Sailors Thai (of David Thompson fame) opening a small Thai place in Clovelly. In my head I'm imagining a local Thai takeaway place done with care and quality, instead of out of the bottle like so many corner Thai places.
So we rock up and find instead it's a pretty swank formal restaurant, with prices ranging from $17-$25. Right...
Which is normally fine with me, if it's inventive, quality food; but not if it's what I can get at any other (decent) Thai place.
So we give it a try. The owners and chefs are all very nice, and more then happy for us to look over the bar into the kitchen, and watch what's going on. Impressed with the giant wok-burners (which looks like a tandoori oven with a wok over it), we take home our food.

And it's not bad. But it's not fantastic either. It's no Spice I Am. I would pay $10-$15 for it, but probably not $17-$25. That said, it shows promise, I appreciate the home made curry pastes and hand made coconut milk, we did only try the take away menu (there's a different one for eating in) and maybe it doesn't travel well. So I'm willing to give it another go, another time.

Chicken curry with sweet potato and cucumber relish grows on you. At first bite it seems slightly boring, but the quality of the curry paste and coconut milk makes it flavourful, and after a couple more goes I'm fighting the others for it.

On the other hand, duck soup is seriously lacking in salt. It has a good base of flavours, which when you take a mouthful shows instantly, but there's nothing to back it up after the first half second. The flavours are to delicate, and there's definitely not enough salt. (The best duck soup is at Ploy Thai, by the way).

Stir fried vegetables are pretty good, flash fried with palm sugar, fish sauce, pepper, garlic, but it's a bit steep at $18. Still, flavours are all there.

And the beef salad with hot and sour dressing is once again quality, but nothing outstanding flavour wise. Solid, but not a revelation. The beef fillet is perfectly cooked rare (as it should for a salad) and top notch, but the roasted rice that was promised turns out to be more of a white powder. It too is very small, much of the box taken up by huge chunks of iceberg lettuce, which are either a space-filler-garnish or an unnessary part of the salad. Having said that, the lemongrass lime corriander salad and dressing is very good.

So on one hand, Oceanic Thai shows lots of promise, and for $5-$10 less per dish it would be a fantastic hit. But at that price I expect something more, and it isn't delivering. Further, at that price, no dish should be off the mark, yet some were heading in that direction. But maybe the in restaurant menu is better. Maybe they need some time to settle in. I'm happy to reserve judgement and I'll meet you back here in the future to try again.

Pictures coming soon.
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OK, it's time to get some serious interaction happening here.
I want to know where YOU think the best places to eat are. Hopefully we'll get lots of replies, and see what comes up consistently.
If you've ever read this blog, now's the time to comment. I'm going to leave this up as the first post for a couple of days, and then link back to it each week or so, so we have continuous discussion and debate.
I want to hear about that fantastic restaurant you went to for your birthday, or where you take your friends from overseas. I want to know about that little hole in the wall where you eat lunch every day, or get take away from every Friday night. Tell me what you think is the best that's out there.

We're going to work with three categories:

1) The Best Restaurant In Sydney
This is the best that Sydney has to offer, all things considered. The pinnacle of Sydney dining, what you feel is the best in Sydney. Can be from any price range, and although you might want to consider value, it probably won't have the deciding influence.

2) The Best Value Restaurant
This restaurant offers the best value for money. It might be cheap or expensive, but either way, it's fantastic value, and you feel happy going there because you always get your moneys worth.

3) Your Favourite Restaurant
This is the place where you most love to go, and wish you could go to every day (or perhaps you do). From any price range, it's where you feel most comfortable, where you enjoy eating at regularly, the restaurant that's closest to you calling it your own. Really, I don't need to explain 'favourite' any more than that.


The answer in each category might be the same; or they might all be different. It's up to you.

Now to give an example, and to get the ball rolling, these are my picks:

1 - The Best: Tetsuyas. It's top quality and an unbelievable experience, but no, I haven't been there. So even though my vote is for Tets, of the places I've been to, the winner would be Buon Ricordo. Oh God, that truffled egg fettuccine...

2 - Best Value: Tricky, but I'm going with Alio for the moment, unless I can improve on that. But Alio is a worthy contender, especially with the special internet-advertised set menu, it's fantastic value for wonderful and inspired Italian food.

3 - Favourite: A tie, between Spice I Am, and Non La. Both are fairly cheap Thai and Viet restaurants respectively, but fantastic quality and a variety of tastes that is out of this world.


It’s as easy as that. I want to hear your selections for each category, and hopefully, why you have chosen them (or it, if you only choose one). Everybody out there who reads this, it's time to comment. You're more then welcome to leave an anonymous comment; we just want to hear as many opinions as possible. So pass this on to everyone you know, and get voting! Before you know it we'll have tried and tested list of the great places in Sydney.
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Shop 3/ 51 Dixon St Sydney 2000 - 9211 8122

I really like the whole idea of Szechuan food, for a couple of reasons.
One, the intense, overpowering chilli factor. Not all Szechuan food is screamingly hot, but most of it looks that way, fully decorated with chillies of every kind.
And as we all know, the hotter the better.

Next, the community feeling that comes with eating together. Szechuan food is based on big stews or hot pots, and you all share a couple of dishes. Then there's the shared suffering in terms of the chilli. If you're going to burn, it's better and much more fun to burn together.

Third, the use of oil. There is quite a lot. But that's ok. Most of the time, oily food is just unhealthy, excessive and greasy, but here it seems devilishly right. There's a certain comfort in hoeing into oily, chilli chicken; you feel satisfied, and we all deserve that once in a while, no matter what the calories.

And finally, the most famous of Szechuan ingredients, the Szechuan peppercorns. To paraphrase Anthony Bourdain, while the chilli is pure burn, the peppercorns are pure freeze. What this means is that they numb the mouth, tastebuds, and even sometimes the whole face. It's an amazing tingling sensation, like the instant before the fire hits you from a huge chilli, in that anticipation. And yet it's the complete opposite to that burn; it freezes you up, lets you eat more chilli then normal, and while you may not notice it as you eat, when you pause for a moment you realise "gosh so this is what it's like to eat dry ice and/or pure carbon dioxide". Good times.

Having laid this out for you, let me now introduce you to Red Chilli, the most fantastic Italian restaurant.

Just kidding.

Red Chilli is a Szechuan restaurant in Chinatown, and is a great example of good Szechuan food. The decor is not much to look at and seems a bit ad hoc, and you have to pass the spruikers outside the other Chinese restaurants (Seriously, if a restaurant needs a spruiker how good can it be? Who wants to eat at the $2 shop restaurant?) but Red Chilli is all about the food. Which is fine by me.

The mapo doufu is, as hoped, a wonderful mix of creamy fresh tofu in the traditional oily chilli sauce with plenty of Szechuan pepper. It's not as hot as expected, and more emphasis is put on the softness of the tofu. A definite must have, Szechuan classic.

The braised duck with konjak is also not very hot, but completely different flavours. The konjak looks like stewed pear, but in fact it's similar to sweet potato, and the duck pieces are bones, skin and all, and meltingly tender. That said, I prefer the spicy, fiery dishes; yet while I find this less interesting, others prefer it - it's up to you.

One we all agree on is the chicken in chilli sauce. This is chicken braised in oil and chilli, once again, but the best example of Szechuan pepper and heat. The top comes completely covered in dried chilli, which looks hugely intimidating, but it doesn't taste nearly as hot as it looks. It's flavourful, interesting and different, and seriously addictive. And after a while you realise your mouth is tingling and slightly numb. Love it.

The pork tenderloin with rice fried cakes is completely different to the other dishes. What looks like a pork stir fry is deceptively hot, to the point where it's the hottest of all the dishes we had. Its poured on to fried rice cakes at the table, and the combination of spicy, saucy pork and vegetables on a crunchy base is an interesting textual change; but apart from that it too seems less interesting then the others.

Finally the green onion pancake, at $3.20, seems like a definite choice. It's a thin, fried disk of pastry layers with green onion through it. Oily, greasy, and thankfully not chilli, it's a fantastic accompaniment for those who want to stuff themselves silly. Because there's already way too much food for four average eaters. The servings are massive. Two dishes (hopefully the mapo doufu and chilli chicken, if I had to choose) would have been plenty, which makes Red Chilli great value. Each main is around $20, and the mapo doufu, an entree, at $10. So while you can spend as much as you want trying different things, you can also eat for $10 or less a head. Which for food like this - hot, fiery, tasty, comforting and thankfully different - is a definite bargain.
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143 Oxford St. Bondi Junction - 9388 9675

I didn’t realize how much of Japanese-Korean centre Bondi Junction is. Wow. I mean, without even including the Westfield shopping centre and food court - just on Oxford Street and the couple of streets around it - there are 4 Japanese-Korean stores, and 8 restaurants.
I never noticed until I stumbled upon a good one. Mirinei. I initially thought “gosh, to find a place like this in Bondi Junction is pretty amazing”; that was until I had a closer look around and discovered it didn’t seem like chance at all. But who cares! All the better for those of us eating.

I definitely recommend you try Mirinei before delving into the others. That is, predominantly for the Korean side of things (for the Japanese, start your journey at Ichi-ban Boshi) Mirinei is a relatively new restaurant (which seems to be struggling from lack of exposure, so let’s help it out, we want it to stay!), doing the Japanese-Korean deal, but you’re really here for the Korean food. The pictures on the outside will start you in the right direction - it’s what got me inside in the first place.

Look for the unusual sounding, the more intriguing items, instead of the typical fare. Spicy kimchi noodles, for example, are a fresh mix of pickles and vegetables with a bit of meat served through noodles. A bit of chilli sauce and you’re on your way. The bibimbab is different vegetables again with some minced meat served over rice with a just fried egg - similar to the variation which comes on a hot plate where you mix in the raw egg yolk to scramble it at the table. With some chilli sauce both are great wholesome meals, but also come with a fascinating array of pickles and accompaniments; kimchi; sauteed sesame spinach and Korean greens; seaweed; tofu; carrot; bean sprouts; and so on.

The marinated beef BBQ (bulgogi) is a perfect meal in itself; a generous portion of tasty sesame-barbequed meat comes on shaved cabbage with all the pickle sides and rice. The meat is diced, and does contain come fat and gristle which seems to be the tradition. But so what. If that’s worrying try the BBQ pork, it seemed leaner (what I could gather from the table beside us).

It doesn’t really stop there. The kimchi soup looks fantastic, for a start, and there are lots of other dishes to proceed with. But sadly, less than when I first visited; it seems the menu is being shrunk - crossed off item by item, my guess because of lack of customers and publicity. It’s a crying shame. Usually an empty restaurant is a bad sign, but this is one instance where even if it's empty when you walk in, you should stay. The food is solid, interesting and tasty, and Mirinei is the type of restaurant we want to keep around in Sydney.
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1635 Botany Rd Botany 2019 - 9666 3069

Sorry about being away for so long. I've been down and out with a crazy flu for a week now, and only just starting to get better.

So let's get on with it! And check out these glorious looking tarts from Croquembouche Patissirie. Definitely not the run of the mill offerings. Add a nice green salad and some grilled chicken and you’ve got a nice, easy and delicious dinner or lunch. Or whack them in the oven for tasty afternoon tea (note: tea not necessary).

The tarts look deceptively rich; I would instead describe them as ‘satisfyingly flakey’. The base is dead thin and really lets the toppings do the talking. The tomato tart is based on oven-roasted tomatoes and a strong hit of basil and garlic, with not much else. Which is fine by me.

The potato version is denser with the extra starch but the slices of potato have been well crisped, and the rosemary helps cut through all the carbs. They’re both based on classic flavour pairings, and work well. A bit of extra salt is all you might need to add, depending on how you like it. They're great for entertaining guests, look stunning, and leave you content and satisfied.
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New Blog Title

June 3rd 2006 01:53
Sydney Table now has a new title! With lots of colours and a funky design!
Look up. No, not that far, that's the ceiling. Lower. Lower. There we go. See?
Still got a bit to learn about how these things are made, so it will get better. And every couple of weeks I'll change the background picture to the best food photo of the week. For now, who can tell me where this one's from?
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