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Sydney Table - August 2006

Uyen Vietnamese Restaurant

August 16th 2006 12:48
27 Albion St Waverley NSW 2024 - 9389 5660



Looks good with these close-ups, doesn't it. But alas, it's not to be.




In fact, Uyen is pretty disappointing. I'll admit we've become used to good quality Vietnamese food, but still. That's no excuse to let lesser stuff pass, is it?

The thing is, Uyen used to be good, back in the day. From memory, that is. In any case, compared to Non La, which we love so much, Uyen leaves a little to be desired.



From the top, the crispy chicken is ok, but a little flavourless. Not huge amounts of meat or crispiness, either.
The caramel fish is good, but much too sweet and heavy on the fish sauce.
So to the beef salad, which is probably the best of the lot. Good with peanuts and fried garlic, and some fresh vegies and herbs.

But the BBQ pork ball version is awful! Pink, salty balls of meat and fat have an unbelievably off-putting texture, like a congealed sponge.
The stir fried vegetables and prawns are also a bit tame, and with too much fish sauce.



Unfortunately there aren't that many good Asian restaurants around the Waverley, Clovelly, Bronte area, but Uyen doesn't help. If you're desperate, it's fine. But to impress or savour, stick to places you know and like. For me, for Vietnamese, that's Non La.
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249 Oxford St Darlinghurst 2010 - 9360 3220



I must say, I like a spicy salad. The best are usually Thai or Vietnamese, but they're healthy, full of goodness, and with lots of protein depending on the ingredients.
It tastes so fresh and spicy, not heavy or oily as some Asian food (and food in general can be).

So what else am I going to have when I'm by my self for dinner before going out on a Saturday night?

The secret is being able to pick a salad which flavourful and tasty, and with a good balance of greenery or vegies to meat, instead of all meat (think larb or Thai beef salad).

A favourite of mine is the Vietnamese pork and prawn salad, which is done with pickled grated carrot and cabbage, lettuce, (and possibly some green papaya a la som tum, although I wouldn't presume to be sure) as well as chilli, Vietnamese mint, peanuts and fried garlic, and the palm sugar lime juice fish sauce dressing.

I've seen a couple of chicken versions which are just as good, although the authenticity is probably debatable. In this case it's the chicken version I tried. And the serving was absolutely huge, for $16, enough to feed two or three people. Or just me; with rice. Sweeeet.

This really is a wicked salad; and when it's this good (oh the crunch, the spice, the sweet, and the salty; Mmmm) there's not excuse not to be healthy.

So who cares whether it's authentic? It's damn good and hits the spot. And that's what I like.
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Fekerte's Ethiopian Cuisine

August 7th 2006 09:50
Un 74/ 2 Cape St Dickson 2602 - (02) 6262 5799
Also Trading At Bus Depot Market On Sundays


Oh yeah, Ethiopian. That's right. You haven't got it, and you definitely need it.

Well, to be more accurate, Canberra has it. It's called Fekerte's, and it's good, hearty food which is lightened with spices, herbs, and lemon juice. What I found unusual for such a poor country is the emphasis on meat based dishes. But that may be just the Aussie influence.

So here's the go. As is laid out in the lovely intro to Ethiopian food in the front of the menu, the meal is all about the Enjera. Enjera is a flat bread, which is very porous, and almost reminds me of a thin sponge. It's got a very light, almost lemony flavour. You're meant to put curry or stew into the middle of the bread, leaving bits uncovered on the side. You break off these bits and use them to scoop the curry off the rest of the bread and eat it. Afterwards you're left with sauce soaked bread, which you stuff hungrily into your mouth.
Ignore the rice.

The intro also explains there are two types of stews; hotter ones flavoured with berbere (a red pepper seasoning), and milder ones with more subtle seasoning. There are also vegetarian/vegan dishes using seasonal vegetables and oil instead of butter, which originated for those following the Ethiopian Orthodox Church 'fasts' where they eat only vegan food.

Now bear in mind that choosing is going to be very difficult. Everything does look and sound good, and none of it is very familiar, so you're going to want to try it all.

The meat samosa is very good, much different to what you're used to. As are the cauliflower fritters, which seem to be a cauliflower puree, and come with a green harissa style sauce, and a kind of yogurt-garlic-cum-tzatziki dip. Good stuff.

We had chicken with berbere (remember what that is?) and lemon juice, which comes, as do all the curries, with a bowl of cooling, homemade cottage cheese. The beef with berbere is similar; both are great, hearty stews which showcase a depth of flavour and spices I wouldn't have associated with Ethiopian food.

We love the marinated lamb sauteed with rosemary onions and green peppers. Not a stew, bit with crispy meat, the seasoning and spices are so perfect that this is easily our favourite dish. Unfortunately it disappeared before a photo could be taken.

Also good is the diced lamb and red lentils cooked with tomato and berbere. Similar to the other stews, but more reminiscent of a thick lentil soup, this is also well spiced, and goes well with the cottage cheese and enjera.

Ordering a combination plate is an easy way to combine dishes into flavour combinations which work well together. You're sure to find what you want, and you get all the additions and trimmings, as you can see. But be warned, it's a hard plate to share, because the portions are so individual.

And yes, we had to try the Ethiopian baklava. For purely research purposes, of course. With homemade filo it was the most tempting sounding desert, so how could we not? It's very heavy and syrupy, with pistachios instead of walnuts. But the tea and kabaya flavours weren't obvious. Not matter, it's still good.

Fekerte's is a great experience for anyone wanting to broaden their eating horizons. At roughly $20 per curry or combination plate (less for vegetarian options) it's middle of the range, as the servings aren't huge, but filling enough. But that's a price I'm happy to pay for food which is this good and offers something refreshingly different. Make it a definite stop when in Canberra.
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